Ionian Islands & Corfu
The green, sheltered Ionian — Corfu's Venetian old town, the lagoon-blue water of Paxos and Antipaxos, and the calm channels around Lefkada.
Among the gentlest cruising grounds in the Mediterranean: pine-covered islands, short hops, and an afternoon breeze in place of the Aegean's meltemi. Corfu's Venetian old town anchors the north; Paxos and Antipaxos turn the water an improbable turquoise to the south; Lefkada's channels and Kefalonia's Fiskardo close out a week built for lingering.
Everyone talks about the Aegean wind. Nobody mentions how still the Ionian is by evening.
The gallery
Aerials, the anchorages, the caves, the old town.
Signature anchorages
Shelter, draft, and the scene — six named stops worth the detour.
- Corfu — Old Town roads & the Kalami–Agni–Kassiopi coastAn open roadstead (unsheltered, offshore anchorage) off the old town for a first or last night; the northeast coast's small bays below olive terraces are the owners' lunch stop of choice.
- Paxos — Lakka BayA deep, near-landlocked natural harbour at the island's north tip. Excellent all-round shelter; tavernas ashore make it the standard overnight.
- Antipaxos — Vrika & VoutoumiTwin white-sand bays over shallow, lagoon-turquoise water. Day-anchor only in settled weather — no real shelter from the south — but this is the water everyone comes for.
- Sivota, LefkadaA horseshoe bay on Lefkada's southeast corner, fully sheltered; muddy/weedy holding (poor anchor grip — set well and check it), taverna pontoons with lazy-lines.
- Fiskardo, KefaloniaA narrow natural harbour at Kefalonia's northern tip — one of the few Ionian villages to survive the 1953 earthquake intact. Good shelter in the prevailing northwesterlies; anchor with lines ashore, crowded in peak season.
- Kioni, IthacaA deep bay ringed by ruined windmills and pastel houses on the hillside. Avoid in easterly or southerly winds — weedy holding, swell builds.
The scene
Beach-taverna glamour, old money, and the regatta calendar.
Agni & Kaminaki, Corfu
A run of boat-access tavernas on the northeast coast where owners anchor for lunch — described in real-estate press as a spot where a millionaire's yacht regularly slides into view.
Domes Miramare
Built on the site of Aristotle Onassis's former villa; the 1960s retreat of Onassis and Maria Callas, now an adults-only resort with its own vessel, the Miramaretta.
The north coast
The Rothschild family are Corfu's best-known long-term residents; the Duke of Westminster and Lord Sainsbury are named in the real-estate press as regular visitors near Kassiopi.
International Ionian Sailing Week
Running since 1989, the Ionian Rally threads Corfu, Lefkas, Kefalonia and Ithaca each August.
Southern Ionian Regatta
Established 1979; two days of racing ending in a party at Sivota, Lefkada — provisionally 16–17 September 2026.
Antisamos, Kefalonia
The turquoise bay used for Captain Corelli's Mandolin, still one of the Ionian's most photographed anchorage beaches.
Table & stay ashore
Toula's Taverna, Agni
Running since 1982; scorpion fish in parchment with wild fennel. Owner Toula still inspects every plate — a long-standing draw for anchored owners.
Carnayo, Gaios
Stone-and-wood dining room with a garden courtyard on the yacht-lined Gaios seafront; bourdetto and mezze.
Nassos, Loggos
Lobster spaghetti, bourdetto, grilled octopus, on the Paxos harbourfront.
Erimitis, Paxos
Fine dining above the sea, built for sunset.
Domes Miramare
Adults-only Luxury Collection resort on the former Onassis villa site.
The week, sketched
Corfu Old Town
Depart Gouvia, anchor off the old town roads beneath the Venetian forts; evening ashore in the UNESCO old town.
Agni & Kaminaki
Short run down the northeast coast; lunch at Toula's, swim off the boat.
Paxos, Lakka Bay
Cruise south to Paxos; anchor in Lakka's near-landlocked harbour for the night.
Sea caves & Antipaxos
Tender the west-coast caves in the morning, cross to Antipaxos for a swim day over the turquoise shallows.
Sivota, Lefkada
Cross to the mainland side and the sheltered horseshoe bay at Sivota; taverna dinner on the water.
Meganisi & the Lefkada channels
Thread the narrow channel between Lefkada and the mainland; anchor off Meganisi's north bays.
Fiskardo, Kefalonia
The Ionian's best-preserved Venetian village for a final night, or retrace north toward Corfu.
The quiet week
The gentlest corner of an already gentle sea — Corfu, Paxos and Antipaxos, and nothing more strenuous than a swim.
Corfu Old Town
Depart Gouvia Marina and anchor off the old town roads beneath the Venetian forts; an evening ashore in the UNESCO old town.
Kalami, Agni & Kaminaki
A short run down the northeast coast; lunch at Toula's in Agni, then an afternoon at anchor below the olive terraces.
Paxos, Lakka Bay
Cruise south into Lakka's near-landlocked harbour for the night — full shelter, tavernas ashore.
Gaios & Loggos, Paxos
Round the island to Gaios for the yacht-lined waterfront and dinner at Carnayo, or on to Loggos for Nassos's lobster spaghetti.
Antipaxos & the sea caves
Tender the west-coast caves in the morning, then a full day at anchor over Antipaxos's shallow, lagoon-turquoise water at Vrika and Voutoumi — settled weather only, there's no real shelter from the south.
Return north to Corfu
Retrace toward Gouvia, with a last night off Kalami or Agni before disembarking.
To Ithaca and back
The classic run, extended south past Fiskardo to Ithaca's quieter harbours, for a charter with a few extra days to give it.
Corfu Old Town
Depart Gouvia and anchor off the old town roads; the Venetian forts and the UNESCO old town ashore for the evening.
Agni & Kaminaki
Lunch at Toula's on the northeast coast, then an afternoon swimming off the boat below the olive terraces.
Paxos — sea caves & Lakka Bay
Tender the west-coast caves early, ahead of the day-boats, then round into Lakka's sheltered harbour for the night.
Antipaxos
A full day over the turquoise shallows at Vrika and Voutoumi — day-anchor only, and only in settled weather; there's no real shelter here from the south.
Sivota, Lefkada
Cross to the mainland side and the sheltered horseshoe bay at Sivota; the holding is muddy and weedy, so set the anchor well and take a taverna's lazy-line for the night.
Meganisi & the Lefkada channels
Thread the narrow channel between Lefkada and the mainland; anchor off Meganisi's north bays.
Fiskardo & Antisamos, Kefalonia
Fiskardo's Venetian harbour survived the 1953 earthquake intact — anchor with lines ashore, and expect company in peak season. Round the coast afterwards to Antisamos, the turquoise bay that stood in for Captain Corelli's Mandolin.
Kioni, Ithaca
The furthest point south, a deep bay ringed by ruined windmills and pastel houses — avoid in easterly or southerly winds, when the holding turns weedy and swell builds.
Pair with
The year, measured
Monthly means at the heart of this water — daily maxima averaged, wind as mean daily peak.
| Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Air, day °C | 14 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 19 | 24 | 26 | 27 | 25 | 22 | 20 | 16 |
| Sea °C | 17 | 15 | 16 | 16 | 19 | 23 | 25 | 26 | 26 | 25 | 21 | 18 |
| Wind, peak kt | 18 | 16 | 15 | 15 | 13 | 12 | 14 | 13 | 14 | 14 | 18 | 17 |
ERA5 reanalysis via Open-Meteo · 2019–2023 means · sea temperature 2022–2023
The yachts that run these waters
Profiles from the record — introductions via the harbour desk.
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