Aegean / Greece

Greek Cyclades

Whitewashed Mykonos, the sacred ruins of Delos, and the flooded caldera of Santorini — the Aegean's icon circuit, run to the meltemi's clock.

  • May–Oct
  • JMK / JTR
  • Caldera & windmills

The Cyclades are the postcard the rest of the Mediterranean is measured against — cubist white villages, a sacred ruined island, and a caldera that drops a yacht's tender into 300 metres of blue in a single step. Mykonos supplies the scene; Santorini supplies the view; Paros, Naxos and Ios supply the quieter miles between them.

“You don’t sail to Santorini for shelter. You sail there for the one photo everyone already knows.”

The gallery

Aerials, the caldera, the windmills, the ruins — the section owners actually scroll.

Signature anchorages

The meltemi decides which of these are open on any given afternoon.

  • Ornos Bay, MykonosFull shelter from the meltemi; the default anchorage for the south-coast beach-club run.
  • Super Paradise, MykonosOpen and scenic — the see-and-be-seen anchorage in calm spells, exposed if the wind turns south of west.
  • Delos & RheniaThe sacred island and its quiet swimming neighbour — a daytime call, not an overnight.
  • Santorini caldera (Oia/Ammoudi & Athinios)No anchoring — buoy-and-stern-to only (bow anchor out, stern lines to the quay); the scarce moorings book out months ahead.
  • Naoussa Bay, ParosGranite-sheltered, 8–12m over sand — the best all-round meltemi refuge on the whole route.
  • Naxos ChoraThe central Cyclades' most protected natural harbour, guarded by the marble Portara.

The scene

Beach clubs, regattas, and the show that made Mykonos a verb.

Mykonos

Nammos

Psarou Beach since 2002 — superyachts anchor offshore, tenders run all day, and the club keeps its own dock and helipad for a proper entrance.

Mykonos

Scorpios

Soho House’s Paraga Beach club, opened 2015 — a built afternoon-into-sunset arc of music, the curated counter-programme to Nammos.

Regatta

The Aegean 600

A 605nm offshore race out of Sounio with a gate at the Santorini caldera, run on the meltemi’s own 15–40kt — already a Mediterranean offshore classic.

Table & stay ashore

The Cyclades' marquee tables and cliff-view addresses.

Restaurant

Selene

Pyrgos, Santorini — chef Ettore Botrini, contemporary Cycladic cuisine in a restored 19th-century building.

Restaurant

Lauda

Oia, Santorini — cliffside dining with rotating guest chefs and Aegean-facing tasting menus.

Restaurant

Noema

Mykonos Town — a quieter, sophisticated repeat-visitor favourite tucked into the old town.

Hotel

Cavo Tagoo

Mykonos Town — the island’s most-photographed infinity-pool hotel, private plunge pools throughout.

Hotel

Katikies

Oia, Santorini — the property that introduced the boutique caldera-view category, three cliff-cut infinity pools.

Hotel

Canaves Collection

Oia, Santorini — cave-suite architecture and private plunge pools, among Greece’s most prestigious small hotels.

The week, sketched

Planned around the meltemi, from Mykonos.

Day 1

Mykonos

Arrive, anchor at Ornos or the south coast; Mykonos Town, the windmills and Little Venice at sunset.

Day 2

Delos & Rhenia

Morning at the Delos sanctuary before the heat and the meltemi both build; a swim stop at Rhenia; Nammos or Scorpios at sunset.

Day 3

Mykonos to Paros (Naoussa)

Run south to Naoussa Bay, the best-sheltered stop on the circuit when the meltemi is up in the Paros–Naxos channel.

Day 4

Paros to Naxos

Short hop to Naxos Chora, anchored under the Portara — the central Cyclades’ most protected harbour.

Day 5

Naxos to Ios

The overnight link south; a quieter, less charter-dense stop before the run in to Santorini.

Day 6

Ios to Santorini

Arrive early afternoon to secure a mooring buoy off Oia or Athinios before they fill; sunset from the deck below the cliff towns.

Day 7

Santorini

Fira and Oia ashore, before departure or repositioning back toward Mykonos.

The sheltered week

A Mykonos round trip that skips the scramble for a caldera mooring altogether — the sheltered side of the meltemi's clock.

Day 1

Mykonos

Arrive and anchor at Ornos or the south coast; ashore by evening for the windmills at Kato Mili and Little Venice as the sun goes down.

Day 2

Delos & Rhenia

A morning at the Delos sanctuary before the heat and the meltemi build, then a swim stop at Rhenia.

Day 3

Super Paradise

A calm-weather day at the open, scenic anchorage — exposed if the wind turns south of west, but the see-and-be-seen stop of the group.

Day 4

Paros — Naoussa Bay

Run south to Naoussa Bay, granite-sheltered over sand — the best all-round meltemi refuge on the whole circuit.

Day 5

Naxos Chora

A short hop to anchor beneath the marble Portara, in the best-sheltered harbour of the central Cyclades.

Day 6

Return toward Mykonos

Retrace north with a second night at Naoussa or Ornos, rather than joining the queue for a Santorini buoy.

The full circuit

The full run there and back, with a second night in the caldera for Oia as well as Fira.

Day 1

Mykonos

Arrive and settle at anchor off Ornos; ashore for Little Venice and the windmills at Kato Mili, dinner at Noema in the old town.

Day 2

Delos, Rhenia & Super Paradise

The Delos sanctuary and a swim at Rhenia in the morning, then round to Super Paradise for the afternoon and Nammos or Scorpios after dark.

Day 3

Naoussa Bay, Paros

South to Naoussa Bay — the circuit's most reliable shelter when the meltemi is up in the Paros–Naxos channel.

Day 4

Paros to Naxos

On to Naxos Chora, anchored in the lee of the Portara — the safest natural harbour on this stretch of the Aegean.

Day 5

Naxos to Ios

South overnight to Ios — calmer and less charter-dense than the islands either side of it, and the last easy anchorage before the caldera.

Day 6

Ios to Santorini

Arrive early to take a mooring buoy off Athinios before they fill — the buoys are scarce and often booked months ahead; dinner at Selene in Pyrgos.

Day 7

Santorini — Oia & Ammoudi

A second night in the caldera, this time off Oia and Ammoudi; dinner at Lauda on the cliff, with time to walk both Fira and Oia properly rather than rushing them.

Day 8

Santorini toward Ios

Begin the return leg rather than disembarking, timing the passage for the meltemi's morning lull before it builds through the afternoon.

SeasonMay–Oct, peak Jul–Aug
Water temp15–25°C
MeltemiN wind, F4–6, peaks Jul–Aug pm
Nearest marinaMykonos (Tourlos), ≈25m
Hub distanceMykonos–Santorini ≈65nm

Pair with

The year, measured

Monthly means at the heart of this water — daily maxima averaged, wind as mean daily peak.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Air, day °C131314172226282825221915
Sea °C161616171822252624232118
Wind, peak kt151515131111141313121413

ERA5 reanalysis via Open-Meteo · 2019–2023 means · sea temperature 2022–2023

The yachts that run these waters

Profiles from the record — introductions via the harbour desk.

Read on: WAKE — the magazine · the guides · the glossary