Caribbean — Windward Islands

St Lucia

Two rainforest peaks drop straight into the sea at Soufrière, a landlocked hurricane hole splits the coast at Marigot Bay, and every December the Atlantic's longest-running ocean rally sails in to finish at Rodney Bay.

Dec–MayUVF · HewanorraUNESCO Pitons

St Lucia packs the whole Windward Islands story into one island. At the south-western end of the charter run, Gros and Petit Piton rise straight out of the Caribbean above the town of Soufrière — close enough from a mooring to touch, because the water beneath them is too deep to anchor. Fifteen nautical miles north, past Marigot Bay's landlocked hurricane hole, the coast opens into Rodney Bay's wide lagoon, where a proper superyacht marina does the island's fuel, provisioning and customs — and where, every December, several hundred blue-water sailors arrive at once as the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers reaches its finish line.

“The water directly beneath the Pitons drops away too fast to hold an anchor — every yacht that comes to look picks up a mooring instead.”

Signature anchorages

Moorings, not anchors, for most of the coast south of Marigot — the Soufrière Marine Management Association (SMMA) runs the Pitons end, two marinas hold the rest.

  • Soufrière Bay & the Pitons — Anse des PitonsDirectly between Gros Piton (770m) and Petit Piton (743m), inside the 2,909-hectare Pitons Management Area, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004. The seabed falls away too fast to anchor, so yachts pick up an SMMA mooring — the largest rated for craft over 120ft (37m) LOA (length overall). Afternoons can turn gusty and rolly off the peaks; rangers sometimes ask for a stern line ashore.
  • Anse Chastanet & Anse MaminA reef-fringed double bay just north of Soufrière town, below the Anse Chastanet and Jade Mountain resorts. SMMA moorings sit over sand and coral in 5–15m with good holding, and the Piton Wall's dive-able drop-off is close enough for an afternoon in the water.
  • Anse CochonA quieter black-sand bay further up the leeward coast, also SMMA-managed, usually with far less traffic than the moorings under the Pitons; a healthy reef sits right off the mooring field.
  • Marigot BayA landlocked harbour reached through a narrow, palm-lined entrance — one of the Caribbean's classic hurricane holes (a bay sheltered enough to ride out a storm) and a port of entry in its own right. Marigot Bay Marina runs to around 40 berths, six of them for craft over 51m, max draft 6m (19.7ft), plus mooring buoys further into the bay for smaller yachts.
  • Rodney BayThe island's yachting capital: a wide lagoon guarded at its north end by Pigeon Island and the ruins of Fort Rodney (1778). IGY Rodney Bay Marina is a full port of entry — 32 superyacht berths to 87m LOA, max draft 3.9m, max beam 18.3m, among 253 berths in total — and the finish line for the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) every December.

The scene

A transatlantic fleet's December finish line, a Friday-night fixture older than most of the marinas, and the fort that watched over it all.

Rally · Nov–Dec

The Atlantic Rally for Cruisers

Around 150 boats a year sail roughly 2,700 nautical miles from Las Palmas, Gran Canaria, to Rodney Bay under the World Cruising Club's ARC — first run in 1986, over 8,000 boats since. The 2026 fleet departs 22 November; the finish line closes 18 December, prize-giving the day after.

Weekly · Friday

Gros Islet's Friday jump-up

A street party (locally, a “jump-up”) that has run most Fridays for more than fifty years: barbecue smoke, Piton beer and a sound system in the town centre from sunset into the small hours. Good Friday is the one week off.

Landmark · 1778

Pigeon Island & Fort Rodney

Once a true island, joined to the mainland in 1972 by a causeway built from marina-dredge spoil. Admiral George Rodney's 1778 fort watched the French fleet in Martinique ahead of the 1782 Battle of the Saintes; a national landmark since 1992, and the backdrop to the marina below it.

Table & stay ashore

Two clusters — hillside tables over the Pitons at Soufrière, and a boutique cliff north of the marina at Rodney Bay.

Restaurant

Jade Mountain Club

The signature table at Jade Mountain, open only to resident guests, in an open-walled dining room aimed straight at the Pitons — modern fusion cooking built around the view.

Restaurant

Dasheene, Ladera

Ladera's restaurant sits 1,000 feet above the sea with both Pitons framed between the resort's open walls — one of the Caribbean's most photographed dinner tables, and usually booked well ahead.

Restaurant

The Cliff at Cap

Cap Maison's clifftop room at Smugglers Cove, north of Rodney Bay — French-West Indian cooking, sunset views to Martinique and Pigeon Island, and champagne delivered to the table by zip line.

Stay

Sugar Beach, A Viceroy Resort

Set directly between the Pitons on the site of a former sugar plantation — the most family-oriented of the Soufrière hillside resorts, with watersports and a spa built into the rainforest.

Stay

Cap Maison

A boutique cliffside resort at Smugglers Cove, an easy walk north of Rodney Bay Marina — the closest proper hotel base to the ARC fleet each December.

A week, sketched

Day 1

Rodney Bay

Board at IGY Rodney Bay Marina and provision, then walk the causeway onto Pigeon Island for Fort Rodney's ruins before an easy first night in the lagoon — time it for a Friday and Gros Islet's jump-up is a short taxi away.

Day 2

Marigot Bay

A short run south to Marigot Bay's landlocked hurricane hole; walk the boardwalk village on the north shore and cross the inlet by passenger ferry for dinner.

Day 3

Anse Chastanet & Soufrière

On south to a mooring off Anse Chastanet; snorkel the reef and the top of the Piton Wall's drop-off, then tender into Soufrière town for the fish market and the Sulphur Springs drive-in volcano.

Day 4

The Pitons

Round to Anse des Pitons and an SMMA mooring directly between Gros and Petit Piton; the Tet Paul Nature Trail's viewing platform for the classic look back over the bay, dinner at Dasheene or Jade Mountain Club above the water.

Day 5

Gros Piton, or Diamond Falls

A guided climb of Gros Piton for those who want it — a certified guide is mandatory by law — or a slower morning at Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens and its mineral baths, back aboard by early afternoon.

Day 6

Anse Cochon

North again to a quieter SMMA mooring at Anse Cochon for a last reef day, well clear of the Pitons traffic.

Day 7

Return to Rodney Bay

Back to IGY Rodney Bay Marina to disembark, or carry on north toward Martinique for onward travel.

SeasonDec–May, peak Feb–Apr
Water temp27–29°C
Prevailing windE–NE trades, 15–20kt
Superyacht marinaRodney Bay Marina · 87m LOA
Rodney Bay–Soufrière~15nm

Pair with

Read on: WAKE — the magazine · the guides · the glossary

The year, measured

Monthly means at the heart of this water — daily maxima averaged, wind as mean daily peak.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Air, day °C272828293030293030302928
Sea °C272627272829293030302928
Wind, peak kt1011111011111110891010

ERA5 reanalysis via Open-Meteo · 2019–2023 means · sea temperature 2022–2023

The yachts that run these waters

Profiles from the record — introductions via the harbour desk.

Read on: WAKE — the magazine · the guides · the glossary