The Americas

Southern California & Catalina

A Navy city, an island with a movie-mogul past a short crossing offshore, and a national park where nobody lives at all — San Diego to the Channel Islands, the most varied coastal week on this side of the Pacific.

Southern California is a different kind of cruising ground: three working harbour cities along sixty-odd miles of coast, a genuine island a short crossing offshore, and beyond it a national park where nobody lives at all. San Diego supplies the infrastructure — deep, sheltered water, a Navy pedigree, and the only true superyacht berths on this stretch of coast. Newport Beach and Marina del Rey do the mainland glamour at a smaller, shallower scale. Catalina supplies the crossing everyone remembers, and two harbour towns to show for it. The Channel Islands, further out again, do the wilderness: sea caves, seals, and not a dock in sight. The water runs cooler than the postcards suggest, and the season longer than most.

“Cecil B. DeMille, Louis B. Mayer and Samuel Goldwyn used to arrive by yacht at Avalon's Casino to preview their newest pictures — the closest thing this coast has to a red carpet.”

Signature anchorages

Three mainland harbour cities, an island with two faces, and a national park with none of the above.

  • San Diego Bay — Fifth Avenue Landing & Kona KaiDowntown's Fifth Avenue Landing takes yachts to 300ft (91m) LOA, 65ft beam and 20ft (6m) draft; Kona Kai, on Shelter Island, holds 250ft (76m) LOA in a minimum 17ft (5.2m) at low water. Both sit inside deep, sheltered water guarded by Point Loma, with refit work at Marine Group Boat Works in the south bay. La Playa Cove, between the San Diego and Southwestern Yacht Clubs, is the historic weekend anchorage for smaller craft.
  • Newport HarborA shallower, small-craft-scaled harbour by comparison — Lido Peninsula Marina, to 135ft (41m) LOA, is the practical ceiling, and the marked anchorage between Lido Island and Bay Island holds good mud in around 10ft (3m). The 1905 Balboa Pavilion still marks the harbour's working heart.
  • Marina del ReyThe largest man-made small-craft harbour in North America — over 4,600 slips behind a protective breakwater — but built for exactly that; individual basins run to 100–113ft (30–34m), a handful of slips to around 150ft (46m), and depths of 15–21ft (4.6–6.4m). Anything larger works through an agent for a mainland berth, or anchors off in Santa Monica Bay.
  • Avalon, Catalina361 moorings, mostly privately leased and released to visitors when not in use, in around 18ft (5.5m) over good holding; reserve through the city's Harbor Department. The Casino's white drum is the first landmark to appear, from almost any direction.
  • Two Harbors, Catalina — Isthmus Cove & Catalina HarborOver 700 moorings and anchorages across a dozen coves at the island's isthmus; moorings here are fore-and-aft tackle, not swinging, and Isthmus Cove or the leeward Catalina Harbor can be chosen to suit the wind. Hail Harbor Patrol on VHF channel 09 on arrival.
  • Channel Islands National ParkOpen anchorage only, no marina infrastructure and, on National Park Service land, no landing permit needed — Scorpion Anchorage on Santa Cruz Island and East Anacapa are both free to go ashore, though Anacapa's cove is not an all-weather anchorage. The rest of Santa Cruz belongs to the Nature Conservancy, which charges a landing fee and permits no overnight use.

The scene

Landmarks that have outlasted the fashions around them — a naval headland, a Hollywood ballroom, two ocean-going traditions.

Ocean race · Apr

Newport to Ensenada International Yacht Race

Racing to Mexico every April since 1948, when Humphrey Bogart was among its founders — some 125 nautical miles from Newport Harbor to Ensenada, and regularly billed as the world's largest international yacht race by fleet size.

Tradition · Dec

Newport Beach Christmas Boat Parade

A lighted-boat procession around the harbour every December, running in one form or another since 1908 — one of the oldest holiday traditions on the water in the United States, and still drawing the fleet out after dark.

Landmark · 1929

The Catalina Casino, Avalon

William Wrigley Jr.'s Art Deco landmark holds the world's largest circular ballroom, a 180ft dance floor for 3,000, over a theatre built for the first films with sound. Hollywood's studio moguls used to arrive by yacht for the premieres.

Landmark · 1934

Wrigley Memorial & Botanic Garden

A 1930s memorial to William Wrigley Jr., built almost entirely from island stone, above a 38-acre garden of plants found nowhere else on Earth — and a clear run down the canyon to the San Pedro Channel.

Museum ship

USS Midway Museum

The US Navy's longest-serving 20th-century aircraft carrier, permanently berthed on San Diego's Embarcadero since 2004 and now one of the most-visited museum ships anywhere — a startling backdrop on the way to a downtown berth.

Landmark · 1855

Cabrillo National Monument, Point Loma

The 1855 lighthouse standing over San Diego Bay's entrance, decommissioned for fog 36 years later but preserved on the headland where Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo is thought to have landed in 1542 — the first sight of California from the sea.

Table & stay ashore

Addresses old enough to have their own histories, from a wave-splashed dining room to a novelist's hilltop pueblo.

Restaurant · 1941

The Marine Room, La Jolla

Built on the sand in 1941, before coastal building rules caught up with it, with reinforced glass that lets diners watch the Pacific break against the window at high tide. The seasonal High Tide Dinners are timed to the biggest swells.

Hotel · 1888

Hotel del Coronado

A wooden Victorian beach resort from 1888, a National Historic Landmark since 1977, and one of the largest buildings in the country to be electrified when it opened — visible from the water on the approach into San Diego Bay.

Resort · 1948

Balboa Bay Resort

Newport Harbor's waterfront club since 1948, built on former wartime naval land and still running its own 130-slip marina alongside the hotel — the closest thing this harbour has to an institution.

Hotel · 1926

Zane Grey Pueblo Hotel, Avalon

The Western novelist's own hilltop home, built in 1926 in a Hopi pueblo style he borrowed from Arizona, turned into a hotel after his death and reopened in 2019 after a lengthy renovation — sea views from the hill above the Casino.

Saloon

Harbor Reef Restaurant & Saloon, Two Harbors

The isthmus institution, and home of the Buffalo Milk — a White-Russian-style cocktail invented at its bar more than forty years ago and now poured island-wide. Line-caught swordfish in summer, a harbour-view patio year-round.

A week, sketched

Day 1

San Diego

Embark at Fifth Avenue Landing or Kona Kai Resort & Marina; provision, and run out past Point Loma for a first look at the 1855 lighthouse inside Cabrillo National Monument before a first night alongside, an easy walk from the Gaslamp Quarter.

Day 2

San Diego to Newport Beach

North some 68 nautical miles to Newport Harbor; a berth at Lido Peninsula Marina or the marked anchorage off Lido Island, then tender in to the 1905 Balboa Pavilion and the Fun Zone for the evening.

Day 3

Newport Beach to Avalon, Catalina

The shortest crossing of the week, some 26 nautical miles of open Pacific, to a mooring off Avalon — the Casino's white drum the first landmark to appear. Ashore for dinner, and the Wrigley Memorial's canyon views the next morning.

Day 4

Avalon to Two Harbors

Round the island's wilder northwest side, about 13 nautical miles, to the isthmus; a fore-and-aft mooring in Isthmus Cove or the leeward Catalina Harbor, whichever the wind favours, and a Buffalo Milk at the Harbor Reef Saloon.

Day 5

Two Harbors to Marina del Rey

Back to the mainland, around 27 nautical miles; Marina del Rey's basins are sized for boats under about 150ft, so this is a night for the tender and Fisherman's Village rather than a berth for anything larger.

Day 6

Marina del Rey to Channel Islands National Park

North around 60 nautical miles, past the Channel Islands Harbor gateway and on into the park itself — Anacapa's arch and its 1932 lighthouse first, then the night at Scorpion Anchorage on Santa Cruz Island.

Day 7

Channel Islands National Park

A full day among the park's sea caves — Painted Cave, among the largest sea caves on Earth, by tender at slack water — before the passage back to the mainland to disembark.

SeasonYear-round, best Jul–Oct
Water temp~14–21°C, coolest Feb–Mar
Prevailing windSea breeze (NW) / Santa Ana (offshore)
Superyacht marinaFifth Avenue Landing, San Diego · 300ft/91m LOA
San Diego–Catalina~65–70nm, open water

Pair with

Read on: the guides · the glossary

The gallery

The year, measured

Monthly means at the heart of this water — daily maxima averaged, wind as mean daily peak.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Air, day °C161515171819212223221916
Sea °C151414151718202221201817
Wind, peak kt111213111111111111101010

ERA5 reanalysis via Open-Meteo · 2019–2023 means · sea temperature 2022–2023

The yachts that run these waters

Profiles from the record — introductions via the harbour desk.

Read on: WAKE — the magazine · the guides · the glossary