Caribbean / Atlantic

Cuba

The Caribbean's largest island, split between two very different coasts — Hemingway's marlin grounds off Havana, the region's largest marina at Varadero, and a permit-only flats fishery further south that no other operator may enter.

Cuba runs two charter itineraries under one flag. On the north coast, Marina Hemingway sits a short run from Havana's Malecón and its working fleet of pre-revolution Detroit iron, with the Caribbean's largest marina now built out along Varadero's Hicacos Peninsula an easy day's run east. On the south coast, reached separately, Cienfuegos and the cobbled colonial streets of Trinidad open onto the Bay of Pigs' cave-diving and, further out again, the permit-only bonefish and tarpon flats of Jardines de la Reina and the coral walls of Maria la Gorda at the island's western tip. The season runs November to May, ahead of the Atlantic hurricane months; the marina network, almost without exception, is state-run — which matters more here than in most charter grounds.

Havana's streets still run on 1950s Detroit iron — the same embargo, redrawn every decade since, that keeps most of the world's charter fleet on the far side of the Florida Straits.

The sanctions reality

What follows applies specifically to US-flagged yachts and US passport holders, not to the rest of the charter fleet.

Since June 2019, the US Commerce Department has withdrawn the export licence exception that let American-flagged pleasure craft sail to Cuba at all, and the general policy on any fresh application since has been denial. Separately — and this is the part that catches owners who assume a foreign flag settles it — the US Treasury's Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) regulates the person, not just the vessel: a US passport holder's travel to Cuba is only lawful under one of twelve specific licence categories, among them family visits, journalism, professional research and support for the Cuban people, and tourism is explicitly not one of them. Chartering a foreign-flagged yacht for a leisure week at Marina Hemingway does not change who is doing the travelling.

The direction of travel has hardened rather than eased. Cuba was returned to the US State Sponsor of Terrorism list in January 2025, the State Department's Cuba Restricted List was reinstated and then expanded to around 250 entities that summer, and a further executive order in May 2026 added secondary sanctions reaching foreign companies doing business with Cuba's state sectors. GAESA, the Cuban military's holding company, is itself already blocked, and Gaviota — GAESA's tourism arm, whose marina and dive-centre subsidiaries appear on the Restricted List by name — is the operator, directly or through its Marlin marina brand, behind most of the marinas named in this dossier, Varadero included. A foreign-flagged yacht that does call here should also take advice on the 180-day rule and its companion passengers-on-board restriction before its next US port: a vessel that has carried passengers to or from Cuba can be barred from entering US waters afterwards outside a narrow licensed exception. None of this touches the rest of the charter market — European, Latin American and Canadian owners and guests cruise Cuba routinely — but it rules out the US-flag and US-passport segment almost entirely.

Signature anchorages

Two coasts, not one circuit — the distances between them are real, and the itineraries below are built accordingly.

  • Marina Hemingway, HavanaFour kilometre-long channels cut through the reef at Santa Fe, west of the city; official capacity around 400 vessels with LOA (length overall) to 70 metres on paper, though usable, fully serviced berths run to a fraction of that and several pontoons still await repair. Draft to about 3.6 metres. Present-day home of the Hemingway International Billfish Tournament, which has run most years since its first Havana staging in 1950.
  • Varadero — Marina GaviotaThe Caribbean's largest marina by berth count, built out along the Hicacos Peninsula with draft to about 4 metres and dockage advertised toward 1,200 berths as the build-out continues. Fronts the near-20-kilometre beach that gives Varadero its name; the marina basin is fully protected, the open roadstead beyond it exposed to the north.
  • Cienfuegos — Punta GordaA UNESCO-listed neoclassical grid of a city on a deep, almost landlocked bay — good holding and all-round shelter once inside. Marina Cienfuegos at Punta Gorda runs to around 20 berths, LOA to roughly 25 metres; a working transient marina rather than a superyacht dock, and often full with resident charter fleets midweek.
  • Trinidad — Casilda & the Ancón peninsulaTrinidad's cobbled UNESCO old town sits inshore of Casilda, which is not itself a port of entry — clear in at Cienfuegos and take a despacho (Cuba's port-to-port cruising permit) for the leg on. The shoal-draft dock at Cayo Blanco, in the mangroves south of Casilda, has room for two or three boats stern-to with water and diesel; better draft and more berths, to around 26, sit at the marina on the Ancón peninsula opposite.
  • Jardines de la ReinaOver 160 kilometres of cayos (low sand-and-mangrove islets) and reef along Cuba's south-central shelf, a national park with a fishing and diving area larger than the entire Florida Keys — and access is a single exclusive concession, held by the operator Avalon, whose own liveaboards are effectively the only vessels permitted inside it. No yacht marina, no casual entry; the gateway is the small mainland port of Júcaro, reached overland, not by sea from Havana or Varadero.
  • Maria la Gorda, Guanahacabibes PeninsulaCuba's westernmost anchorage, inside a UNESCO biosphere reserve at the tip of the Guanahacabibes Peninsula — steep coral walls starting close to shore, among them the Salón de María and the Black Coral Valley, spread across some 60 charted dive sites. No marina; anchor off the dive centre's pier and clear in via Cabo San Antonio, the nearest port of entry, a run around the cape.

The scene

Havana ashore, and the marlin tournament that put Marina Hemingway on the chart in the first place.

Tournament · since 1950

Hemingway International Billfish Tournament

Ernest Hemingway put up the first trophy himself in May 1950, when 36 boats left Havana's Miramar Yacht Club to fish for it — he won the next two runnings outright. Catch-and-release since 1997; the only recorded meeting between Hemingway and Fidel Castro came when Castro collected the cup in 1960.

Ashore · Havana

The Malecón & the classic-car fleet

Around 60,000 vintage American cars, roughly half of them 1950s models, are still working Cuba's roads — Fords, Chevrolets and Buicks kept alive by decades of embargo-forced improvisation. The Malecón, Havana's seafront drive, is where to watch the fleet in motion.

Ashore · Jaimanitas

Fusterlandia

A short run from Marina Hemingway, the fishing village of Jaimanitas is now reworked almost entirely in broken-tile mosaic — the life's work of artist José Fuster, who began on his own house in 1975 and, with neighbours' consent, has since covered more than eighty more.

Table & stay ashore

Havana's paladares — privately run restaurants, legal since the food-service reforms of the 1990s — sit alongside the city's grand hotel dining rooms; Michelin does not rate Cuba, so the record here is reputation and history rather than stars.

Paladar

La Guarida

One of Havana's first private restaurants, opened in the 1990s in a crumbling Centro Habana mansion made famous by the film Fresa y Chocolate; Madonna and Beyoncé have both dined here since.

Paladar

San Cristóbal

An eclectic, antiques-filled dining room built around chef Carlos Cristóbal Márquez's Cuban-Creole cooking — lobster, malanga, fresh fish — and the paladar Barack Obama chose for his own family dinner during the 2016 visit.

Stay

Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski

Cuba's first five-star hotel, opened in 2017 inside the Manzana de Gómez — a 1917 building that once housed the island's first shopping arcade — in the middle of UNESCO-listed Old Havana.

Landmark · Vedado

Hotel Nacional de Cuba

A 1930 seafront hotel on the site of the old Santa Clara artillery battery, designed by the New York firm behind the Plaza Hotel; a national monument since 1998, its gardens still hiding the anti-aircraft positions and bunker tunnels — now a small museum — that Castro used to direct Havana's air defence during the 1962 missile crisis.

A week, sketched

Built around the north coast's only two marinas — the south coast, described above, runs as a separate charter out of Cienfuegos, not a single week's extension.

Day 1

Marina Hemingway, Havana

Clear in through one of Cuba's seven ports of entry and settle in for the first night; a tender or taxi run into Habana Vieja (UNESCO-listed since 1982) for the old town's plazas and the Malecón at dusk.

Day 2

Havana, ashore

A full day off the boat — a classic-car circuit of the Malecón and Vedado, Fusterlandia in neighbouring Jaimanitas, dinner at a paladar in Centro Habana.

Day 3

Passage to Varadero

A day's run east, around 65 nautical miles, to Marina Gaviota on the Hicacos Peninsula — the Caribbean's largest marina by berth count.

Day 4

Varadero

The near-20-kilometre beach that gives Varadero its name, and a run out to the stalactite-hung cenote (a flooded limestone sinkhole) at Cuevas de Saturno.

Day 5

Varadero

A slower day alongside or at anchor off the peninsula — reef time, or simply the beach.

Day 6

Return to Havana

Retrace the coast to Marina Hemingway, or disembark direct through Varadero's Juan Gualberto Gómez International.

Day 7

Extension — Maria la Gorda

For a longer charter with the range for it, continue past Havana and round Cabo San Antonio to Maria la Gorda — a further day's run each way — for the wall dives of the Guanahacabibes biosphere reserve, before returning to Havana to disembark.

SeasonNov–May, peak Dec–Apr
Water temp~25–29°C
Prevailing windNE trades, 10–18kt
Superyacht marinaMarina Gaviota, Varadero · largest in Caribbean
Ports of entry7 — agent essential

Pair with

Read on: WAKE — the magazine · the guides · the glossary

The year, measured

Monthly means at the heart of this water — daily maxima averaged, wind as mean daily peak.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Air, day °C272930313132323231302927
Sea °C272727272830303131302827
Wind, peak kt1111121110999991111

ERA5 reanalysis via Open-Meteo · 2019–2023 means · sea temperature 2022–2023

The yachts that run these waters

Profiles from the record — introductions via the harbour desk.

Read on: WAKE — the magazine · the guides · the glossary